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Mixing Up Aniline Dyes

3/12/2017

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I prefer using a glass jar that has a rubber gasket. This keeps the dyes fresh.
  1. Open the packet on a covered surface. 
  2. Boil 1/4 cup of distilled water (if available). 
  3. Pour the water into your container(I prefer glass)
  4. Add the packet of dye and stir it until it is well incorporated.
  5. Next, add 1 cup of cold water, distilled is best. 
  6. Add 1 tablespoon of white vinegar.
  7. Cut it out and use the label on packet to mark your dye jar.
  8. Use the dye when it has cooled-I do pop an ice cube in, when I am impatient!  
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Saving Dyes

5/4/2014

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 A question was asked on social media: 
 Do you save your dyes from year to year or do you make new ones every year?   if you store them, how do you recondition the colors? 


 IF YOU WRITE PYSANKY ALL YEAR LONG
  • Some people work on eggs all year long and continue to use the same batch of dyes.   Always check to see that  dyes are not moldy.  Some people strain the mold from the dyes and then heat and reuse it.   Tymothy  wrote to me and said that he "save dyes more than 6 months. All dyes usual stay in cooling room year-around".  
  • I prefer to  mix up a new batch and am certain that the jars that I use are sterilized in the dishwasher.   I never mix fresh dye powder into old dyes. There could be cross contaminants in the old dye. As a rule, if I am working for several hours on penciling in a design, I don't want my Pysanky to be ruined by weak dyes.  So I make sure that all the dyes are strong.   I see no need in saving dye from year to year.   We work in an art where the dye product is so cheap.  I also keep in stock those tried and true colors that I love using, so I have them when I need them.   
                "... your work will only be as good as the product you are using" 
  • If you only write eggs a couple of times a year,  mark the month/year on the jars when you mix them. Each time you use it,  you may need to add  1 Tbsp. vinegar  to recondition the dye . 
  • Cyn says:  "When I make new dyes I dump the old, scrub the jar in hot water and start again. I don't add new dye to old mainly because I work on duck eggs,  which I think contaminate the dyes more than the chickens eggs do. I also have a theory that as the dye molecules come out of the dye, they do not do so evenly, so what is left is not quite the original color. I have seen this with greens that over time become blue.  Also I think duck eggs pull a lot of dye out of the solution, further weakening the dye bath".
IF YOU TEACH CLASSES 
I teach pysanky classes and so I make up new batches of basic colors at the start of the season. I use 2 packets of each color per jar + 1 Tbsp.  of vinegar.  My dye table for teaching consists of 2 jars of yellow(as there can be a backup on the yellows), orange, traditional red(UGS Scarlet+ UGS Red), turquoise, deep blue, purple, brick red and black.   As people are beginning to learn the art, I want the colors to be vibrant for their eggs; and not have disappointed students.  

ADDITIONAL ISSUES WITH DYES
  • BLUE DYES
    Some blue dyes will not keep their original shades longer than a few weeks/months. You can still use, if you like the shade that it colors  or mix a new packet of dye. 
  • ORANGE / GOLD DYE
            I have always had issues with oranges and gold.  They tend to separate and congeal. 
            The best orange which I have settled with is TANGERINE, from pysankyusa.com 
            as it has no issues with the vinegar, and is a strong orange.  
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First Time Teacher Tips:  the Dye Table

6/29/2013

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Buy sturdy containers for storing and transporting dyes.  The number of dyes used is up to a teacher (start with basic colors). 

Label each container with the color of dye.

Write in Permanent Marker the name of the color, on a dollar store white plastic table cloth, then place the jar next to the label. 

Layout dyes on the table in order from LIGHT- DARK dyes.  

Add bowl of vinegar and water wash both at the head and end of they table. 

Layout dyes on the table in order from LIGHT- DARK dyes.  
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Dyeing Eggs in Ziploc Baggies

6/8/2013

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 VERY LARGE EGGS, such as emu and ostrich or over-sized goose eggs require either special large containers, or they can be dyed in Ziploc plastic bags.
When using the bags for dyeing, stand the dyes in a more sturdy container. 

I DON'T RECOMMEND USING BAGS WHEN TEACHING A CLASS-USE STORAGE JARS INSTEAD! 


     Personally, I store my dyes in glass containers, but expect to use this method when writing an ostrich egg later this year. 
     BE CERTAIN  to test each high quality
 1-gallon Ziploc bag for leaks (you can pour a cup of water into it,  while holding the bag over the sink).  If the bag  oesn't leak, empty out the test water, and pour in about 1 1/2 cups of the  dye.   Label your bag with the color and dye manufacturer.  You should add the date that you mixed the dye, so as to keep track of the age of the each dye. 
   ADD THE EGG, removing as much air as possible from the bag, and zip up the  seal (double check that you've sealed it all the way). Move the bag around  occasionally to insure equal coverage of the dye on all parts of the egg. Then  remove it when the desired shade has been reached!   Thanks Lorrie! 


ADDITIONAL TIPS :     
  • place the bags in a plastic pail so they don’t leak
  • or a plastic shoe container lined with paper towels
  • place 2-3 baggies into one larger baggie without dyes. This is helpful in keeping the top of the baggies from falling over and letting dyes  drip out in case they aren't closed well​


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 Airtight Jars for Pysanky Dyes at $tore

2/26/2013

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The storage jars that I have been using for about 5 years are on sale at my local Dollar Tree Stores, for...$1.00 !  They are airtight and a large goose egg fits nicely in the jar as you can see in the photo.
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I make up each dye according to the packet 
1   1/2 c water, a tsp. of vinegar.  When doing chicken eggs this liquid is sufficient.  When doing a goose egg, I top off the dye with extra water.  However, I always use two(2) packets of dye per jar.   I am using whole unblown eggs, so you see in the photo how nicely my goose egg sinks.

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Why I Like to Work on Raw Eggs

11/27/2012

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Why I Like to Work on Raw Eggs 
They Sink in the Dye Better! 
I only work on raw eggs.  As you can see in the photo, the egg sinks to the bottom of the dye.  I do not have to hold the egg down in the dye.  So I get a strong even color, with no marks left on the egg.  Some artists hold the egg down the(floating) blown egg with an inverted shot glass or other methods.  This can  distress the wax, smudging it or even removing  XX Fine lines.  It can leave you distressed, lol!

I generally apply one coat of varnish, let it cure for 24 hours, and then drain the egg.  I apply a second coat or more. 
I have been experimenting with leaving the egg un-blown for smaller eggs, like chicken and turkey.  But have not done so with goose eggs.  Please see my blog on Un-Blown eggs.



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Storing Dyes

11/18/2012

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Storing Dyes   Dyes  stored  in an air-tight container or sealed glass jar, housed in a cool dry place, should last for a couple of seasons, therefore the container which you chose is important. 
​ Please click on each image for more info! 
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    by Maggie 

    I am of Ukrainian and Polish ancestry, 2nd generation American, who grew up in an ethnic household and neighborhood in Passaic, NJ.   Keeping with tradition, I learned to write pysanky as a young girl and continue to work on my passion for pysanky.  I teach classes and demonstrate the art year-round.

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