- Open the packet on a covered surface.
- Boil 1/4 cup of distilled water (if available).
- Pour the water into your container(I prefer glass)
- Add the packet of dye and stir it until it is well incorporated.
- Next, add 1 cup of cold water, distilled is best.
- Add 1 tablespoon of white vinegar.
- Cut it out and use the label on packet to mark your dye jar.
- Use the dye when it has cooled-I do pop an ice cube in, when I am impatient!
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![]() A question was asked on social media: Do you save your dyes from year to year or do you make new ones every year? if you store them, how do you recondition the colors? IF YOU WRITE PYSANKY ALL YEAR LONG
I teach pysanky classes and so I make up new batches of basic colors at the start of the season. I use 2 packets of each color per jar + 1 Tbsp. of vinegar. My dye table for teaching consists of 2 jars of yellow(as there can be a backup on the yellows), orange, traditional red(UGS Scarlet+ UGS Red), turquoise, deep blue, purple, brick red and black. As people are beginning to learn the art, I want the colors to be vibrant for their eggs; and not have disappointed students. ADDITIONAL ISSUES WITH DYES
The best orange which I have settled with is TANGERINE, from pysankyusa.com as it has no issues with the vinegar, and is a strong orange. ![]() Buy sturdy containers for storing and transporting dyes. The number of dyes used is up to a teacher (start with basic colors). Label each container with the color of dye. Write in Permanent Marker the name of the color, on a dollar store white plastic table cloth, then place the jar next to the label. Layout dyes on the table in order from LIGHT- DARK dyes. Add bowl of vinegar and water wash both at the head and end of they table. Layout dyes on the table in order from LIGHT- DARK dyes. ![]() VERY LARGE EGGS, such as emu and ostrich or over-sized goose eggs require either special large containers, or they can be dyed in Ziploc plastic bags. When using the bags for dyeing, stand the dyes in a more sturdy container. I DON'T RECOMMEND USING BAGS WHEN TEACHING A CLASS-USE STORAGE JARS INSTEAD! Personally, I store my dyes in glass containers, but expect to use this method when writing an ostrich egg later this year. BE CERTAIN to test each high quality 1-gallon Ziploc bag for leaks (you can pour a cup of water into it, while holding the bag over the sink). If the bag oesn't leak, empty out the test water, and pour in about 1 1/2 cups of the dye. Label your bag with the color and dye manufacturer. You should add the date that you mixed the dye, so as to keep track of the age of the each dye. ADD THE EGG, removing as much air as possible from the bag, and zip up the seal (double check that you've sealed it all the way). Move the bag around occasionally to insure equal coverage of the dye on all parts of the egg. Then remove it when the desired shade has been reached! Thanks Lorrie! ADDITIONAL TIPS :
![]() Why I Like to Work on Raw Eggs They Sink in the Dye Better! I only work on raw eggs. As you can see in the photo, the egg sinks to the bottom of the dye. I do not have to hold the egg down in the dye. So I get a strong even color, with no marks left on the egg. Some artists hold the egg down the(floating) blown egg with an inverted shot glass or other methods. This can distress the wax, smudging it or even removing XX Fine lines. It can leave you distressed, lol! I generally apply one coat of varnish, let it cure for 24 hours, and then drain the egg. I apply a second coat or more. I have been experimenting with leaving the egg un-blown for smaller eggs, like chicken and turkey. But have not done so with goose eggs. Please see my blog on Un-Blown eggs. Storing Dyes Dyes stored in an air-tight container or sealed glass jar, housed in a cool dry place, should last for a couple of seasons, therefore the container which you chose is important. Please click on each image for more info! |
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